Having never visited Morelia before, we were thrilled when a friend, Shaun, invited us to discover the town, celebrate the Day of the Dead, and delve into his passion for Mezcal—a spirit crafted from various agave plant species, particularly here in Michoacan, Mexico.
Late October in Morelia offers perfect weather—cool mornings and evenings, paired with pleasantly warm afternoons. Our day began with a cup of coffee on the patio and journaling while admiring the stunning landscape from our friend’s charming home. The delightful morning inspired us to take a brisk walk around the neighborhood before breakfast. The distinctive homes reflect the pride of Morelia’s residents, especially their artistic front doors, each one a unique piece of art. The foliage is mature – things grow here in the rich volcanic soil that you just don’t see in most places – with a few owned horses parked outside homes feeding on the fresh grasses. We stopped by a small tortilla shop (an extension of someone’s home) and enjoyed some of the freshest and most delicious corn tortillas I’ve ever tasted – maize mixed with nopal.
Upon returning home, we ate our tortillas as breakfast tacos before heading out to explore downtown. After navigating the Dia de los Muertos local traffic, we wandered through numerous art shops and courtyards, soaking in the vibrant energy and sunshine as the town buzzed with excitement for the upcoming Day of the Dead celebrations.
The artwork here is deeply entwined with Mexican culture, featuring beautifully handmade scarves, shoes, masks, pottery, copper vases, and much more! We also visited a local government-run educational museum, where we admired stunning art exhibitions focused on architecture and design. We truly appreciate the architectural creativity in Mexico! I purchased a denim jacket created by a local artist, perfectly embodying the Dia de los Muertos theme.
After all the walking, we took a break at a nearby coffee shop for a treat. We enjoyed an iced coffee while Shaun opted for a latte, and we shared a delectable peanut butter cookie—just the refreshment we needed to energize us for the afternoon ahead.
Traffic in town can be a bit hectic, yet it somehow remains polite. The narrow streets are filled with mopeds, scooters, local busses, cars, and police all managing to navigate, without any stop signs! Amazingly, there’s minimal honking or frustration. Shaun did an excellent job driving through it all – crazy controlled chaos with a smile and whilst sharing his knowledge to make the experience ever more profound.
Once back home, we treated ourselves to a couple’s massage, which was incredibly soothing. Set on the rooftop with views of downtown Morelia, the air was cool and shaded, accompanied by beautiful flamenco music that helped us focus on relaxation. After a few hours of rest, we participated in a Mezcal tasting hosted by Shaun with around 20 locals—some American expatriates, a local Mescalero, and environmentally conscious individuals.
First, we must say, we are new to the flavors and expectations of Mezxcal – Shaun and Oswaldo paired the Mezcals with various food items which were delicious. The tasting involved distinguishing the aroma, flavor, aftertaste, and appearance of six different brands from Michoacan. Each brand offered intriguing flavors and aromas – we learned how to smell, taste and allow the Mezcal to drip over the sides of our tongues and eventually the experience of swallowing the Mezcal. Some of the aromas were more “Alcoholic” in flavor and some were more “damp earth” or “smoky”. Shaun did a great job interpreting and describing the type of farm, how many generations of family have raised the agave and whether it is more artisanal small batch or more commercially produced. It was so interesting to learn about how the process of cultivation, the type of wood (whether oak or Avocado wood or others), the material in which the agave is stored Omar’s “El Generalisimo” became the group’s favorite! We couldn’t resist purchasing a bottle to take home.
Overall, our first full day in Morelia was absolutely wonderful. With no fixed expectations, Shaun orchestrated a memorable day filled with engaging conversations, delicious meals, and new experiences. The warm and welcoming people of Morelia greatly enriched our visit, and we eagerly anticipate the adventures that tomorrow will bring!
By Faryl Greller & Andrew Greller
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